Pura Vida Club (Denver, CO) - A

First - I know I owe a part 2 for the Broadmoor - it will come soon! In the middle of traveling and interviewing and packing and I want to do it well...

In the meantime, I was able to check out a spa/healthclub in Denver's Cherry Creek area this week, so I'll give it a quick write-up.

Short version:
If this place were part of my regular workout routine, I think I'd feel pretty zen.

Branding - the name has some borrowed equity. Pura Vida is the name of a premier yoga/spa destination in Costa Rica, which I haven't yet had the pleasure of visiting. Also a Costa Rican colloquialism for living well, etc. The club's web site even mentions that. So it's not necessarily a bad thing - right away it conjures up blue skies and relaxation and living well. The question is, does it deliver on that promise?

Atmosphere - From the moment you walk in, you're immediately transported from the mildly annoying, shoppy world of Cherry Creek below, and into a true spa environment. I'm a sucker for a water feature, especially in old waterless Denver. There's also a cool little lounge area with a gas fireplace. Ordinarily awesome, but it was a bit hot for that yesterday. Anyway, very soothing, simple, breezy vibe. Well done.

Staff - Very friendly and helpful. Especially because I managed to show up in a rush and without half my workout clothes/accessories. They helped me find a decent tank top in their shop for $7. Not bad. Also, I had to figure out using a free guest pass - technically I wasn't eligible because I am not a local resident. But they were really great about it, and it didn't take much prodding to get them to approve 20% off a spa treatment, either. Sadly, I couldn't find an appt that fit with my schedule, so I can't review the spa aspect of Pura Vida. But I can tell you the spa receptionist was very helpful and really tried to find something to accommodate me - I'm just crazy busy this week. Even the locker room attendant was on top of her game - politely getting a chatty kathy off her cell phone (prohibited -- which is a huge plus in my book.) Excellent job, Pura Vida Staff!

Fitness Center - There are a bunch of studios for classes, pilates, etc. Didn't use them, but they looked bright and airy. The main fitness center with all the cardio and weights machines is nice. Surrounded by floor to ceiling windows, but shielded from the rocky mountain sun with UV window shades. Not a huge space, but a decent amount of machines and not too crowded (although I'm betting it gets a bit cozy in there at peak times). Also, a huge plus - not every cardio machine had a TV screen. I'm glad those are an option, but I hate having them right in my face when I'm working out, and many of the newer health clubs kind of force them on you with every machine. So I was glad to nab a really awesome treadmill with a high tech screen featuring a trainer/nature course/racetrack, but not a big old TV screen 4 inches from my eyeballs. Also, the machine had iPod and USB ports, and allowed you to download your workouts to a USB for any sort of personal trainer software you're using. Very nice feature for regular members. Disappointed not to find a water dispenser with cups (having also forgotten my water bottle), but I get that from an environmental perspective, a water fountain is just fine. Also would have liked fruit-infused water to be available - maybe with cucumbers or melons or whatever. I've been spoiled by places like the Broadmoor and the Trump when it comes to that stuff; it's certainly not a major shortcoming to lack it. But a huge plus - the SOFTEST towels I've ever found at any spa/healthclub. Unbelievable. And the locker room facilities are top notch - perfectly clean, plenty of huge lockers, spacious seated vanity areas for getting ready, and really nice, if somewhat limited, amenities (body lotion smelled great, hairspray, deodorant, and mouthwash also available). Both the workout facilities and locker room fit very well with the vibe set in the lobby. All in all, a solid facility.

Other perks - Another fantastic feature is the free parking, which is worth a lot in the heart of cherry creek. Also love the fruit bowls in the lobby - it's great grabbing a healthy snack when you skip lunch for a workout. (Or, in my sad world, had a hot dog covered in cheese and bacon before working out, so feel like an apple after the treadmill might help break you even for the day...). As for the spa, 20% discount on treatments for members Monday to Friday. And I checked them out on Twitter - if you follow them you can discover great deals - today they are listing 30% off spa treatments for anyone today only. That's good use of inventory and social media - both pluses in my book.

So to give this place a full review, I'd have to use it at peak times and get a chance to use the spa. Also, I have no idea what it costs (another quasi-annoying feature of many higher end clubs like this - you can't find anything without going through practically a timeshare presentation...), so I can't say if it's delivering value for the price. But I do recommend checking it out if you are in the market for a fancy schmancy health club (and I mean fancy schmancy in the best possible way...).

The Broadmoor Colorado Springs (Pt I) - A, My Gold Standard

Dear Broadmoor,

They say you never get over your first. Well, you weren't my first spa. But truth be told, I can't remember anything before you.

"I feel like Annie!" - Those words from my friend Sue, on her first visit with me to the Broadmoor, really capture the essence of the Broadmoor experience. While there are plenty of tangible features that earn it a place in my heart, it's the people that make it magical. From the moment you check in, everyone from the parking valet to the bell hop to the front desk make you feel like a celebrity. Even as you hand them a bag of Doritos and girl scout cookies to be delivered to your room. (True story.) Or as you drop a bottle of red wine on the beautiful oriental rug in the lobby, sending pinot noir and shards of glass across the room. (Also a true story.) Or when, after the spa is closed, you ask Security to recover the boots you left behind in the spa locker room, and they return with your boots, and also your leopard print knickers. (Yes, sadly, also true. I'm a class act.) Nobody on that staff would mistake me for a big shot or a big spender or anything noteworthy, but they are so gracious and warm and welcoming, that the spa healing process starts the moment I set foot on the property.


The property - If I were to try to describe each feature of the resort we'd be here forever - it's a 5 star sprawling destination spa outside Colorado Springs. To quote its website -
"located on 3,000 lush acres under the shadow of Cheyenne Mountain and offers an award-winning spa, fitness center, two swimming pools, three outdoor hot tubs, one lap pool; 54 holes of championship golf, six tennis courts with tennis camps; children's programs; 24-hour room service, valet parking, 24 specialty retail shops." Okay, I haven't used the golf course, the tennis courts, or the children's programs - but every other square inch of the Broadmoor is sheer perfection. So I'll move on to the highlights.


The rooms - I've been lucky enough to stay in some of its finest suites, and also some of the smaller rooms. And I'd take the Broadmoor's smallest room over a major suite from pretty much any property I've ever stayed at. Each one has been plush and comfortable - some of the best beds I've ever slept in, luxurious soaking tubs, and bathroom amenities that always get tucked away in the return luggage (not something I usually bother with - but their lemongrass body lotion smells like heaven.) The larger suites feature formal dining rooms, separate bedrooms and bathrooms, fireplaces in comfortable sitting rooms, and outdoor spaces (balconies or lakeside terraces). You'd never want to leave the room. Except that the rest of the resort is pretty amazing, too.

The Golden Bee - A 19th century English pub (fixtures shipped over from the UK in 1961) featuring pub food, yards of beer, and sing-a-long ragtime piano entertainment every night. The waitresses serve up old school attitude as they flick sticky bees at you (I find myself peeling them off sweaters months after a trip to the Broadmoor), and it's impossible to resist singing along to Roll Out the Barrel, K-K-Katie, Sweet Caroline, and dozens of other classics. Thank god for this place, because Colorado Springs leaves much to be desired in terms of going out. Seriously, don't bother.

Other Broadmoor Bars & Lounges - The other bars around the resort are also pretty cozy, if a little subdued compared to the Bee. You've got the Hotel Bar - which features lakeside seating and a great outdoor stone fireplace for enjoying a crisp night and indoor seating that feels like a big old library/drawing room right out of an Agatha Christie novel; the Tavern - with a quasi-outdoor garden seating area that feels pretty magical in the evening; and a selection of fancy restaurants (which I usually skip because I've filled up on the aforementioned Doritos and girl scout cookies).

So yeah, Broadmoor, you are a little slice of heaven. And stay tuned for my write up on your spa - we can show the rest of the world how it's done.

Love,
Kate

Firing Up the Way Back Machine: The Galos Salt Caves (A-)

Here's a little account I wrote after visiting the Galos Salt Caves on Chicago's North Side back in January 2008 (photo courtesy of wrestlingentropy on flickr). It's definitely an experience worth checking out. The only thing I'd say it could improve on is in the entrance, which feels a bit like a retail mud room, where everyone takes off their shoes/coats, and then next thing you know you're in the spa environment. The spa experience really should start from the moment you walk in off the street. It doesn't have to be fancy, but it should be relaxing and welcoming.

Saturday afternoon in Chicago...


Caught between my recent self-imposed "spend-ervention" and a desperate need to seek spa-esque shelter from the sub-zero temperatures outside, I decided to try out one of the "salt caves" my mother had read about in the Tribune. Turns out Polish people have been seeking refuge in such caves for hundreds of years, and now there are at least three salt caves in the greater Chicagoland area. Of course, a salt cave is not exactly a "natural phenomenon" native to Chicago's Northwest Side. But this is America, where anything's possible. I'd heard the Irish speak of "streets of gold," but I'd never heard reference to a "small shelter comprised of 15 tons of compressed sea salt brick walls and floors." I guess it doesn't lend itself to a limerick. (Query: Does Polish culture have a limerick equivalent?) I digress; apparently all of this sea salt is imported from the Black Sea and some Polish lakes.

On my way into the cave, the lovely Polish hostess informed me to remove my shoes and to wear only white socks. Just before closing the door, she invited me to choose any recliner, help myself to a blanket, and "feel free to lay down in the salt." Right, I am going to roll around in my jeans and cable knit sweater (and white tennis socks) in a pile of sea salt.

Now for the cave. It truly looks like a glowing white cave, complete with salty stalagmites (or is it stalactites?). A series of black light fluorescent rods ring the perimeter of the floors, with sporadic colorful lights designed to look like rock formations dotting the wall. Shortly after the "session" begins, the lights dim, and a combination of new-age spa music and ocean waves begin emanating from the salt-encrusted walls. The spa symphony is eventually joined by a soothing Polish voice.

According to this magical voice (whom I shall dub Katarina), as translated by the less-soothing male American voice, forty-five minutes spent in a Galos Cave produces the equivalent therapeutic effect as three days spent at the seaside taking in the salt-water air. I've read my share of post-Victorian Anglo-Irish novels in which delicate women who have "taken ill" due to some vague affliction are often sent to the British seashore to recover. Having no idea what afflicted them, I was never able to deduce what therapeutic benefits would be derived from the beach holiday. Certainly in my experience time spent on the Irish sea is anything but soothing - cold damp air blowing seemingly from every direction has always required its own remedy, typically in the form of some uisce beatha (ah yes the "water of life"). And so I listened on. The iodine-rich air is absorbed through the lungs and the skin, improving respiratory health, softening skin, and, no doubt, curing any touch of consumption I may have picked up in my recent time spent working as a chimney sweep. But then my heart leapt when I heard those three little words that every girl prays for: "increases your metabolism." Jackpot!

So there I am, stretched out in my chaise lounge, lying underneath a soft white blanket, and taking in the hypnotic sounds of breaking waves and soft electronica. Don't get me wrong, I felt relaxed. But not relaxed enough. So I had only one choice -- it was time to get to the ground and roll around in the disconcertingly warm sea salt sands beneath me. It felt great -- so great that I felt compelled to remove my socks and give my hands and feet a good salt rub down. Five minutes later, soft as the proverbial baby-bottom, I rested my head in my arms and enjoyed the remaining few minutes of sea-salt air.

All in all, a successful venture. For only $15, I felt as relaxed as any upscale spa's steam room could achieve. Perhaps next time I will venture to the salt cave that allows for massages in the cave itself. Hey, a girl can only stay frugal for so long...

I grade on a curve...

A quick note on my grading. It's not even close to scientific, but I evaluate the spa, hotel, or brand against what it offers, and others within it's category/price point. So even if a destination spa provides a far superior environment/treatment to a day spa down the street, the day spa might get a better grade because it delivers on its promise. (It's kind of like high school math classes: a kid who gets an A in Remedial Algebra I is not a genius compared to the kid who got a C+ in Advanced Placement Calculus.)

I welcome any comments or suggestions. Maybe indicating the number of stars indicated by the spa/hotel in the header? For example, I probably shouldn't presume that everyone knows that Spa Chakra is supposed to be one of the best. Hopefully, with your feedback, I'll iron out these kinks as I go along.

Palmer House Hilton Spa Chakra: C+

Oh Spa Chakra,

You promised great things:

• "An exclusive luxury spa and fitness destination ... offering more than an isolated moment of relaxation."
  
• "A soothing transition from the hectic pace of the outside world ... an entirely stress-free experience."
• An 8,000 square foot spa facility in addition to a 10,000 square foot fitness center "providing guests with a luxury urban retreat that offers a comprehensive transformational healing experience."
  

But you just didn't deliver.

Short Version: You can't put the fitness center/locker room/steam room on a separate floor from the spa while failing to include any relaxation space in the spa, and still call yourself a destination. Really, it's just a posh day spa that happens to be in a hotel -- "in, out, and on with your life." And when an old Chili's slogan describes part of your spa experience, something has gone horribly wrong. For those who want the full scoop, read on.

Contextual Environment: I'm not sure who's to blame for this (probably whomever was in charge of the $170M Palmer House renovation), but this was one of the worst layouts I've ever seen. The fitness center is on the 8th floor, where you'll also find the locker room and steam room. Unfortunately, the spa is on the 5th floor. To travel between the two, you have to take a hotel elevator and risk running into wedding guests or convention attendees on their way into one of the many ballrooms, while you're in your robe and slippers. And you do have to travel between the two because the spa itself offers no amenities beyond treatment rooms - no steam room, no locker room, no meditation space. That's not an "entirely stress free experience." Particularly where your spa lacks additional amenities, the fitness center and spa need to be on the same floor or at least part of a discrete complex within the hotel so you can use them both comfortably and seamlessly. Major fail.

The Locker Room (in fitness center): Decent steam room, if a little small given the overall size of the facility. Clean and modern, with eucalyptus spray available for spritzing as you like. But there are no hooks immediately outside the room for your robes, at least none that we could find. Probably because the robes are from the spa, and you're at the fitness center. So, do I bring it into the steam room and let it get all damp and gross? Or shove it into a tiny locker? Yuck.

Spa Environment: The spa facilities are gorgeous - modern, airy, and soothing. Nice balance of light woods, clean whites, and the occasional flowing natural fabrics. Each treatment room is spacious and well laid out. Unfortunately, there's virtually nowhere to rest peacefully outside of the treatment rooms. A few chairs around a coffee table in the Guerlain cosmetics and perfume (i.e. thinly veiled retail) space doesn't cut it. No quiet room with a fireplace or a relaxing lake view or light aromatherapy to just sip tea or cucumber water and enjoy the moment before or after your treatments (especially while waiting for friends with overlapping appointments). We expected a lot more from the 8,000 square feet than we got.

Spa Treatments: All four of us enjoyed our massages and rated the therapists highly. Also, the 15 minute foot soak which is included at the beginning of each treatment was a nice touch. I wouldn't say it was anywhere near the best massage I've ever had, but it was a solid B+.

The Spa Menu - Pricing: You have to dig to find the prices here - the downloadable spa menu doesn't include them. In fact, I couldn't find them until I went onto the online reservation system. I guess it's the old "If you have to ask, you can't afford it" bit. Tacky. At first blush, the services seem a bit pricey, although Chicago price points vary widely. Basically, every 30 minutes of spa treatments cost $90. And while the shortest massage they list on the online reservation is 90 minutes for $270, by calling the spa directly I learned a 60 minute massage was available for $180. I will add one upside to the spa menu/pricing, which wasn't very clearly advertised: there's no gratuity allowed. Effectively, a $180 treatment is the equivalent of a $150 treatment anywhere else, making it much more reasonable.

The Spa Menu - Packages: The closest thing to a "deal" I saw in the packages was the Skin Revive - a body treatment/facial combo that threw in an extra 15 minutes. Not impressed. Look, I'm not cheap. In fact, show me any kind of "value-priced" or experiential package, and I'm a total sucker that will spend double what I planned. But adding multiple treatments without any kind of package-pricing or added bonuses just offends my practical sensibilities.

Staff: All very pleasant, but not well-trained or informed. They didn't have a grasp on how to check us in and weren't sure on what credit cards were accepted. It's not a huge deal, but those little administrative hassles certainly take away from the overall relaxation.

So, would I go back? Probably not. If I just want a good massage in a nice day spa environment, I can get an equally good treatment at a much better price at any number of day spas in the city. I dare say I could even get an awesome package. Maybe the treatment rooms won't be so beautiful. But hey, if the massage is remotely decent, my eyes are closed anyway.

Regretfully,
Kate

The Palmer House (Part I): B-

Dear Palmer House Hilton,

You are a beautiful gem of a property with everything I love - a rich history of romance and tragedy, gorgeous vintage architectural touches, and a beautifully executed modern restoration.

And yet, and yet, and yet.

The Lobby: (photo courtesy of j.o.h.n. walker on flickr.) One of the most gorgeous main lobbies of any hotel I've stayed at. A two-story work of art with a formal staircase, velvet furniture, marble-topped tables, and a massive Greek Mythology mural ceiling - it has to be experienced. At a minimum, stop in for a drink at the lobby bar located smack dab in the middle of an art deco masterpiece (not to be confused with Potter's Lounge - see below). Unfortunately, entry to the lobby is through the lower level, which is a bit sketchy and confusing. Especially when it's jam-packed with dozens, if not hundreds, of Louisville Cardinals fans blocking access to the signage and the staff. We had to relive that experience the following day, weaving our way through some sort of spring break on steroids to get to the luggage check. Only this time the fans brought their boom boxes and a whole lot of hungover attitude. How could management of a luxury four-star hotel allow its entry to be so unpleasant? (You never get a second chance to make a first, and last, impression, after all.) Fail.

The Room: Happily, we were able to check in early to our double/double with two bathrooms on the Executive Floor. The room was lovely (if not huge), and the bathrooms were immaculate and modern - double-headed showers, decent crabtree & evelyn amenities, and plenty of towels. On the other hand, this slightly taller than average girl could barely reach the toilet paper from the toilet. Who laid out this place anyway?

The Executive Floor: Perks? Hors d'oeuvres in the evening, breakfast in the morning, and snacks and soda available in the afternoon. And perhaps most importantly, a special access express elevator with a bench inside it! I mean, why stand for 40 seconds when you can finally unwind... The downside? Crawling with 19 year olds at some sort of college event. What the huh? This old lady didn't ask for the executive floor so she could crash a ProActiv Convention.

Potter's Lounge: One of the highlights of the property - a posh, swanky spot with an old-school lounge vibe serving high-end cocktails and $4 ribs (happy hour special). What more could a girl ask for? I will definitely be going back here for after work cocktails at some point.

Okay, obviously I'm leaving out something very important. The spa! I will be back to share my feelings about Spa Chakra later this week. This post is already too long, and this spa girl is weirdly exhausted from a long weekend of pampering.

Love,
Kate

The good, the bad, and the ugly.

Hi Friends,

After years of listing the wrongs of every spa I've ever loved, I've finally decided it's time to start sharing my thoughts. And don't worry, I'm going to tell you the good stuff, too. That's my favorite part, after all.

It's too bad I waited so long to do this. I'll start with my most recent experience, and then start letting you know about some of my old favorites and my never-agains. And hopefully, a whole lot of future spa moments.

Hugs,
Kate

p.s. I realize there's a chance I sound like a jerk listing critiques of the most luxurious experiences a girl can hope for, but I promise you it's done out of love.